By Craig Baxter of Euchuca

As a truck driver & rider I would like to pass on a couple of tips for the open road.

If you are going to slipstream a truck I personally don't mind as long as I know you are there. Just pop out to the right hand corner once in a while to remind us you are there.

The most important thing is don't sit too close – stay back at least a car length as things can get shot out from underneath - bits of blown tyres, sticks even dead animals that have been hit by the truck. If you are too close you won't have time to react.

I have seen the end result & it wasn't pretty. This applies doubly so at night.

By Anthony Batchelor of Stawell

The best place to observe a car’s body language when approaching from head on (when they are turning right across in front of you) or from the side, is its front wheels (when doing under 80 kms).  It is the easiest indicator that the driver is moving forward, turning due to the instant movement of the front wheels.

You cannot rely on indicators.

Concentrate on the wheels but be aware of the rest of the car, its body language and the general environment of course.

When riding behind cars, tail lights play the same role, especially the brake lights (assuming they work).

Using these focus points and actually waiting for the motor vehicle to take the course of action indicated provides the rider with the earliest possible detection process for understanding what a driver is actually doing.

 Also watch for the front of the car to dip as the brakes are applied, hopefully this means they are slowing down.

 Another car body language i call the 'heads down bums up' is when you are behind a car in traffic and they punch hard on the anchors to avoid a slow car in front of them, as i am usually looking ahead of the car in front of me the sudden, head down bum up behaviour of a car is a pretty definite indication that a quck stop is coming up...

By Belinda Coleman of Diamond Creek

As a relatively new rider, I am very cautious about looking out for cars that are not going to give way. I received a great tip from a seasoned rider once and use it all of the time.

When riding along and you see a car ahead at a ‘give way’ on your left or right, always look at the front wheel of the car as well as attempting to make eye contact with the driver. If the front wheel is moving slowly, it's likely that the driver hasn't seen you and is not going to give way. You will have time to take evasive action if necessary!

By David Pleasance of Burwood

I have been riding on the road for many years now and consider myself fortunate in that I have had few incidents that have caused me danger.
I find that if I am in a situation of another driver’s fault, I will never get angry at the situation and seek retribution.  I will say silently "no I insist - after you" rather than swear and flick the bird.  As a younger man I may have.  If you allow yourself to get angry, you will endanger yourself greatly by fuelling an already tense situation.  No good will come out of a road rage incident with you on two wheels.

By Peter Hayles of Altona

One of the most important things I learned in my early years of riding is to be a bit paranoid.  Treat every car like they are out to get you and you greatly increase your chances of survival.  Almost every day I ride, someone does something illegal or completely unexpected.  Sometimes it is foolish, more than often it is just plain ignorance.

All that aside, you will never win an argument with a car or a truck when you are on a bike.

So the number one rule has got to be avoidance.  Now most of you can handle a bike for sure, but when it comes to the crunch, how quickly can you really pull up, particularly in the wet?  In the moment of panic you have got to know EXACTLY how much you pull up, if you lock up your rear, or even worse your front, you will be out of control in no time at all.

So ... like everything else, practise.  In the dry to start with.  Travel along an empty road at say 60kph and apply the rear brake only at a particular point.  See how long it takes to stop.  Now repeat with only the front brake.  A bit better that time?  Now try for the optimal mix.  You should find it to be about 80% front with just a bit of rear, particularly on sport bikes.  In the wet this changes to almost 60% front.  But the rear still counts a bit.

I also like to practise locking up the rear quickly, to test the road or tyre condition.  Just quickly stamp on the brake when alone on a straight bit of road.

Another technique to practise is compensating for engine braking.  Engine braking occurs though the rear wheel of course, so try changing down through the gears, using only rear braking to come to a smooth stop.  What you need to do is back off your right (brake foot) each time the clutch is released.  This will ensure an even braking force on your rear wheel.  When you learn this and bring back your front brake your braking performance will be smoother and better.  Good habits to get into NOW, before that next lunatic pulls out on you.

(Ed’s note: Braking is an important skill for riders. Contact your nearest accredited training provider to learn and practise braking techniques under controlled conditions.)

(Ed’s note: When buying a bike it is a good idea to budget in the cost of your full protective gear.)